Les Climats, the latest gastronomical offer in Paris’ 7th arrondissement
A restaurant devoted to Burgundy wines
A former Parisian classified monument takes on a new life thanks to two devotees of Burgundy wine, who have built a temple to their favourite vineyards. To accompany and reveal the wines, Chef Chi Tam Phan’s cuisine is a mixture of traditional French cuisine and Japanese creativity.
Before it became a restaurant, 41 rue de Lille was home to the ‘Postmistresses’, who took their meals in an immense Art Nouveau dining room overlooking a winter garden. The wonderful 1905 décor was at the time Paris’ unique expression of the Arts and Crafts movement and the new owners and partners thus preferred to restore rather than transform it. Bambi Sloan (who signed the new interiors at the Hotel Saint-James in Paris) undertook the delicate mission, meticulously hollowing out the vaulted ceilings then stencil decorating them, renovating marble pillars and repairing stain glass windows.
The duo of Burgundy wine lovers, Carole Colin and Denis Jamet, have had a first successful experience with Chez Monsieur restaurant on the right bank. At Les Climats, the restaurant’s name refers to the particular meaning of ‘climat’ in the Burgundy wine making region, where it refers to a place with a particular kind of soil and microclimate. A perfect choice for a restaurant-wine bar devoted to the wines and winemakers of burgundy. The result? An exceptional wine list composed of more than 300 references, all of which have been tasted by both partners.
Accompanying the wines, the personal and creative cuisine from former Kiku chef, Chi Tam Phan, is perfect. Of Vietnamese origins, the chef started out by perfecting the art of Japanese cuisine, working alongside the likes of Michel Roth at the Ritz or Thierry Marx at the Mandarin Oriental. So when he reinvents classic French dishes, some of which are of 100% Burgundy origins, he goes about it with great finesse and originality.
Les Climats thus offers an excellent, gastronomical cuisine. Everything is right: associations, aromas, textures. The chef’s great skill becomes immediately obvious when the fabulous langoustines are served, flash roasted and served with bold turnip ravioli, all gently floating in a subtly perfumed verbena-lemon broth. The egg flows over crisp green asparagus and is associated with Colonnata lard in an expected but nonetheless successful blend of flavors.
With a perfectly calibrated service, the sommelier keeps a close eye on things, ensures we are happy with the dishes and makes suggestions.
The chef’s genius is confirmed with the fish preparation. The salmon is grilled on one side and placed on a creamy puree of white sweet potato, deliciously seasoned with zesty yuzu. The sea bass is dressed with sautéed baby vegetables bound with a reduced garlic jus. Fantastic!
Dessert is just as refined: candied rhubarb on a salted shortbread and the traditional coconut ball rejuvenated by a tangy mix of lime, passion fruit and ginger.
The service is still being perfected but overall, Les Climats pays a wonderful tribute to the Burgundy vintages that are perfectly accompanied by a refined and creative cuisine.
Vanessa Besnard
Terroirs de Chefs
Les Climats
41 rue de Lille
75007
+ 33 (0) 1 58 62 10 08
Open every day
Lunch menus 36 € and 45 €
Carte blanche dinner menus 75 € or 95 € (6 and 8 services)