Stéphanie Le Quellec sets the Scène
The Prince de Galles’ gastronomic revival
Not only the winner of Top Chef 2011, Stéphanie Le Quellec is one of her generation’s most promising chefs.
At the gastronomical restaurant La Scène the young woman has thought up an ambitious cuisine that combines authenticity and modernity, joined by a single underlying principle: glorify the produce, which takes center stage.
27 months. That’s how long it took to renovate the splendid setting for La Scène, at the heart of the palatial hotel. The interior design is by Bruno Borrione, whose subtle dialogue of Murano blue, white marble and rosewood evokes a period patio. Modern and classical blend effortlessly with spotless white leather furniture that doesn’t disturb the original decor of this mythical Parisian address.
In the dining room, guests’ attention is captured by the central, open, kitchen where the first act begins. Before the watchful gaze of head chef Stéphanie Le Quellec, the troop exchanges glances and comments in what is a perfect rendition of a marvelous score, a gentle murmur of intelligent, harmonious activity that doesn’t disturb diners.
And then the show begins in the plate. For the appetizer, a radish theme is declined over a butter siphon with a tasty, radish-top cream. The produce comes from the best suppliers in each domain: butter from Bordier, vegetables from Thiébault, oysters from Dupuch (Cap Ferret)…
Next, a tasty, superbly prepared vitello tonnato is served at the tip of an immaculately white platter-stone (the exclusive dinner service is by Sylvie Coquet). The simply presented ‘freshly picked green vegetables’ is in fact an exquisite composition that it is almost a shame to touch. Labor-intensive green bean maki and crunchy green peas are chilled by an herb sorbet with coriander overtones. The langoustine is snap poached and coated with a shrimp-studded broth.
Next, there is caramelized calf sweetbread with dates. Each plate is perfect in terms of how it is dressed, the associations and combinations of textures. The wild sea bass is a solo act but can or also come simply accompanied by salicornia and tomatoes on a fragrant shortbread.
Originally from Burgundy, Yann Couvreur is the head pastry chef. His mission is to ensure a sweet, delicate end to the meal that doesn’t overshadow the beginning. Raspberry, vanilla and chocolate are the possible chapters of this final act. If the guest prefers vanilla, he or she is then invited to choose the preferred vanilla bean from a selection presented in a lovely case, like a cigar. It is then whisked away, and returns in a creamy form, trapped between 5 crunchy layers of an astonishingly light millefeuille. With a surprising touch of olive oil, the contrasting flavors of the ‘raspberry tulameen’ are delicately balanced. Right to the end, the meal never ceases to surprise us.
Stéphanie Le Quellec’s cuisine is crisp and inviting, classical and unsettlingly original. In her script, the produce is the star. Thus the Scène is set for a strong, authentic and generous role… that resembles its Director.
Vanessa Besnard
Terroirs de Chefs
La Scène
Hôtel Le Prince de Galles
33 avenue George V - 75008 Paris
+33 1 53 23 77 77
Open every day
Lunch menu 60 €, fixed menus 125 € and 165 €